Xeriscaping · Lawn Conversion

How to Get Rid of Bermuda Grass Before You Xeriscape in Las Cruces

Bermuda grass is the number one reason new rock yards turn green again. Here is how to kill it at the roots this fall, while it is still growing, so it does not come back up through your gravel next spring.

Quick Answer

To get rid of Bermuda grass in Las Cruces, treat it while it is still green and actively growing, which means early to mid October before the first frost (around November 7 on average). Water it well for a week or two, spray a systemic herbicide such as glyphosate exactly as the label directs, hold off watering for several days, then spot-treat any regrowth. After it goes dormant, strip the dead sod. In spring, treat any shoots that green up before you lay fabric, edging and rock. Covering live Bermuda with rock alone does not work.

Reviewed October 1, 2026Control methods: UC IPM, University of Arizona AZ1371, Utah State and K-State ExtensionWatering days: Las Cruces Utilities
Know what you are fighting

Why Bermuda Grass Is So Hard to Kill

Bermuda grass is the most common lawn grass in older Las Cruces yards because it handles heat and drought. Those same traits make it a stubborn weed once you decide the lawn has to go. It survives in three ways at once.

1

Stolons on top

Runners creep across the surface and root wherever they touch soil, including the fines that collect between landscape rocks.

2

Rhizomes underground

UC IPM notes rhizomes usually sit 1 to 6 inches deep in undisturbed soil, and deeper in sandy or tilled ground. Any piece left behind can sprout.

3

Seed and dormancy

Common Bermuda sets seed, and the grass goes brown and dormant in winter. Brown does not mean dead. It greens up again with spring warmth and water.

That is why scraping off the top or spraying a quick-burn product rarely works. You have to get a product or a process down into the rhizomes, or physically remove them.

Timing in the Mesilla Valley

Why Early October Is Your Window in Las Cruces

Systemic herbicides like glyphosate only work when they are absorbed through green leaves and carried down to the roots. UC IPM says late summer treatment is most effective because the plant is moving stored energy into its roots. K-State turf research found that a single fall application before dormancy reduced Bermuda cover the following spring. The University of Arizona guide recommends treating while daytime temperatures are still above 80°F.

In Las Cruces that points to the first half of October. Once nights turn cold and the grass browns out after the first frost, which arrives around November 7 on average, spraying does very little until spring.

Your watering plan has to fit the city schedule. Las Cruces Utilities allows outdoor watering on set days by address all year, and the daytime watering ban runs April 1 through September 30, so from October 1 you can water at any hour on your days.

Your address ends inWatering days
0, 2, 4, 6, 8 (even)Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday
1, 3, 5, 7, 9 (odd)Wednesday, Friday, Sunday
Any addressNo outdoor watering on Monday

Source: City of Las Cruces water conservation page. Check the city site for any updates before you set your controller.

Pick the right tool

4 Bermuda Grass Removal Methods Compared

Each method works, but not equally well in every season. Most successful lawn conversions combine two of them.

MethodHow it worksBest timingWatch out for
Systemic herbicide (glyphosate)Absorbed by green leaves and moved to rhizomesLate summer to early fall while actively growingKills any green plant it touches. Usually needs a repeat.
Solarization (clear plastic)Heats the top layer of soil enough to kill rhizomes4 to 6 weeks in mid summerToo late for October. Plastic must extend about 2 ft past the grass.
Dig or sod cutterPhysically removes sod and as many rhizomes as possibleAfter the grass is dead or dormantMissed rhizome pieces resprout. Hard work in caliche.
Grass-selective herbicideKills grasses but not most broadleaf plantsSpring, on regrowth under 6 inchesSeveral applications per season. Check the label for your plants.

Sources: UC IPM Bermudagrass guide, Utah State University Extension, University of Arizona AZ1371.

Step by step

Kill It This Fall, Build Your Xeriscape in Spring

Utah State Extension is blunt about it: plan on a dedicated effort for at least a full season. This sequence uses fall to do the heavy lifting.

Late Sept to early Oct

Wake the grass up

Water deeply on your permitted days for one to two weeks so the grass is green and growing. Utah State suggests letting it reach 4 to 6 inches. Do not mow right before you spray, because you want plenty of leaf surface.

Early to mid October

Spray on a calm day

Apply a systemic herbicide exactly as the label directs, wetting the leaves without drenching the soil. Shield any shrubs, roses or desert plants you are keeping. Afternoon wind is common here, so a still morning is the safest time.

Days 1 to 7

Hold the water

The Arizona guide says not to water for at least a full day after spraying, and Utah State recommends waiting about seven days. Skip mowing and digging so the product has time to move into the roots.

About 2 weeks later

Check and repeat

The lawn should be turning brown by now. Any patches that stay green, or new shoots, get a second spot treatment while it is still warm enough for the grass to grow.

November to February

Strip and prepare

Once the grass is dead or dormant, cut out the sod or rent a sod cutter or power rake and remove as much root mass as you can. Cap or convert old spray heads now, so you are not watering bare ground through winter.

Spring green-up

Treat survivors, then build

Water the area lightly and wait for any surviving rhizomes to send up shoots. Spot-treat them. Only then lay overlapped fabric, set edging, run drip lines and add rock and plants.

Protect the new yard

Keeping Bermuda Out of Your New Rock Beds

Killing the old lawn is half the job. The other half is making sure runners from a neighbor’s yard or a missed patch cannot move back in.

What helps

  • Woven or geotextile fabric with generous overlaps at every seam
  • Solid edging along lawns, alleys and property lines
  • Drip emitters placed at each plant instead of watering the whole bed
  • Pulling or spot-treating stray runners as soon as you see them

What does not stop it

  • Rock or gravel laid over live grass
  • Wood chip mulch by itself (UC IPM notes Bermuda pushes up through it)
  • Fabric with gaps, torn seams or holes cut too wide
  • Overspray from leftover lawn sprinklers

Water is what keeps Bermuda alive in a desert yard, so the irrigation design matters as much as the barrier. A properly zoned drip irrigation system feeds your plants and leaves the gaps between them dry. If you want the whole conversion handled, our xeriscaping service covers removal, prep, drip and planting, and our rock landscaping crew handles fabric, edging and stone.

What goes wrong

Mistakes That Bring Bermuda Grass Back

Spraying dormant brown grass

Brown leaves cannot absorb much herbicide. Wait for spring green-up instead.

Dumping rock on the lawn

The grass grows straight through the gaps and is far harder to treat once rock is down.

Tilling live Bermuda

Chopping rhizomes into pieces spreads them through the soil and can drive them deeper.

Stopping after one spray

Every extension guide we checked expects some regrowth. Plan on follow-up treatments.

Relying on vinegar or boiling water

Contact methods burn the leaves but do not reach the rhizomes, so the grass regrows.

Leaving the old sprinklers on

Broadcast spray waters every surviving rhizome. Cap or convert heads before the rock goes in.

Wondering what a full lawn-to-desert conversion runs? Our xeriscaping cost guide breaks down turf removal and drip pricing factors. If you would rather keep a green look without the water, compare it with artificial turf, which also needs the Bermuda dead and removed first.

Questions we hear about Bermuda grass

Bermuda Grass FAQ

Can I just put landscape fabric and rock over Bermuda grass?

Not over live grass. Runners find every seam and hole, and the dust that settles in rock gives them soil to root in. Kill the grass first, remove the sod, then use overlapped fabric and edging. Fabric works best as a second line of defense, not the first.

How deep do I need to dig to remove Bermuda grass roots?

UC IPM reports most rhizomes sit in the top 1 to 6 inches in undisturbed soil, and deeper in sandy or tilled ground. Removing the top several inches gets most of them, but expect a few to resprout, so plan a spring check before you build.

Is it too late to kill Bermuda grass in October?

Early October usually still works in Las Cruces because the grass is growing on warm days. Research from K-State found a fall treatment before dormancy reduced Bermuda the following spring. Once it browns out after the first frost, wait until spring green-up.

Will Bermuda grass come back after glyphosate?

Some of it often does. Rhizomes that did not take up enough product will resprout, which is why Utah State and Arizona Extension both recommend repeat treatments. Spot-spraying regrowth is much easier than starting over.

Can I kill Bermuda grass without chemicals?

Yes, but it takes longer. Solarizing with clear plastic for 4 to 6 weeks in mid summer, or repeatedly digging and drying out the rhizomes, can work. In fall, the practical non-chemical route is to strip the sod and keep pulling regrowth through spring.

How long until I can put in rock and plants?

For a fall treatment, the cleanest plan is to strip the dead sod over winter and build in spring after you have treated any regrowth. That way surviving rhizomes show up before the fabric and rock go down.

Ready to Trade Bermuda for a Desert Yard?

Patchy lawn, grass creeping through your gravel, or a full lawn you want gone. Tell us about your yard and we will give you a free estimate for removal and a new xeriscape.